Tobago

There's a certain charm about being awakened at dawn by a chorus of bird calls, even the squawky "Chakalucka! Cocrico!" of the turkey-like national bird of Tobago. With an occasional whistling call from the rufous-tailed jacamar and the creaking and cracking of bamboo branches in the wind, they're the only sounds around at that hour. In the mountains, near abandoned cocoa and fruit plantations, there's the added cry from the yellow-headed parrots if someone is trying to keep them from their breakfast: "Thief! Thief!" Later in the day, underwater, the parrotfish may be making the only noise as they crunch their meal off the corals.

Tobago is rich as a nature destination, with a 230-year-old national park, more than 200 species of birds, and abundant and colorful underwater life. Beaches are picture-perfect with turquoise water, white sand, and a fringe of trees. Accommodations for tourists are plentiful but do not dominate the landscape; Tobago remains largely undeveloped, adding to its appeal. Nature lodges are calming retreats; beach cottages are relaxing places.

Village life feels vibrant even though laid-back. There are always people on the roads, and it seems important to take time for "limin" - just hanging out with friends and neighbors. Guides share their tales and wisdom as they lead tourists into the rain forest, through overgrown plantations, or over coral reefs on glass-bottom boats. There are wonderful sights to
see - orapendola nests hanging like ornaments in a tall tree, a 16-foot brain coral, hummingbirds and bats making regular rounds through open-air hotel lobbies.

I can still feel the sense of "Ahhh" that came over me when I first felt the breezes blowing down a hillside and stopped to watch some vividly colored birds, and later, underwater, when I stayed in one place to take in the sights of a line-up of funny little squids and a curious filefish displaying bright blue dots and dashes as he tried to keep one eye or the other on me.

Most travelers I have talked with about Tobago have asked me not to tell anyone about the place. They like it just as it is. I'm telling anyway; I think Earth Routes travelers would treasure this island.